Nevada Road Trip: Beatty to Tonopah (Day 3)

I hit the road with a handful of trail mix as I was sure I would be in Tonopah by lunch time. It’s under a hundred miles between the two towns, but I had a few stops planned along the way in the little town of Goldfield.

Goldfield is the county seat of Esmeralda County in spite of the fact that the town qualifies in some respects as a ghost town. In its heyday, it had around 20,000 residents, it now has about 400, with another 300 or so in the rest of the county. Unlike most ghost towns, though, the buildings are not abandoned. just largely unoccupied. In fact, here’s a piece of history, the Goldfield Hotel, that you could own:

The county courthouse (which also houses the county clerk, assessor, sheriff, jail, etc.):

Some other buildings:

Before the famous “art car” parades that occur at Burning Man each year began, “Rocket Bob” was creating art cars and they can be found on display right on the main street (https://travelnevada.com/arts-culture/rocket-bobs-art-cars/):

I couldn’t resist copying out part of the information on the sign in front of these beauties:

These are not the most famous cars to be found in Goldfield, however. That distinction must go to the vehicles to be found in the “International Car Forest of the Last Church”.

The “International Car Forest” part of the name was a spoof on “National Forest”. “The Last Church” portion was as a representation of the Last Church being inside each of us.

I did make it to Tonopah by lunch and in the afternoon checked into the historic Mizvah Hotel.

It’s reputed to be haunted, but I wasn’t visited by any spirits. The lobby was delightful, though.

My only other activity for the day was to visit the historic Tonopah Mining Park: nice exhibits and views of some of the biggest mines around town (all of which shut down long ago).

Day four is the drive up to Ely, NV.

Nevada Road Trip: Excursions from Beatty (Day 2)

I started the morning with a pancake from Mel’s Diner. The only other customers were five locals in their jeans and hats spending the morning solving the problems of the world.

Rhyolite is a ghost town just a few miles from Beatty (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rhyolite,_Nevada). The town began its life in 1905, and, by 1907, Rhyolite had electric lights, water mains, telephones, newspapers, a hospital, a school, an opera house, three railroads, and a stock exchange. Its peak population ranged between 3,500 and 5,000 in 1907–08.

The town died almost as quickly as it had arisen. By 1910 the boom was over, and businesses began to close. In 1916, the power company turned off the electricity and even removed the poles. There is very little left of the town as most of the buildings were moved elsewhere or the materials were repurposed.

As I was taking pictures of one of the buildings, I heard this buzzing noise: not like a snake, more like a hive of angry hornets. Just as I was beginning to worry, I realized that of the two other people who were there, one of them was flying a drone. I walked down to meet him and found that he and his wife were from Australia, on a four-week visit to the West Coast. They were on their way to Yosemite. I thought Rhyolite was a rather esoteric choice of stops, but apparently they were fascinated by ghost towns.

One building in town that is still fairly well preserved is Tom Kelly’s Bottle House:

Right next door to Rhyolite is the Goldwell Open Air Museum. This outdoor sculpture park “was created in 1984 by a group of well-known Belgian artists (led by the late Albert Szukalski) who were drawn to the remote upper portion of the vast Mojave Desert to pursue artistic vision free from convention. Each piece was designed within the context of the landscape and should be interpreted as such.” (https://travelnevada.com/museums/goldwell-open-air-museum/) Since then, more sculptures have been added.

The first sculpture was a ghostly life-size version of Leonardo Da Vinci’s “Last Supper:

Later sculptures included a 25-foot woman constructed from pink cinder blocks and a 24-foot steel prospector and his penguin companion:

Beatty is famous for the number of wild burros that are in the area and that wander through town. I didn’t see any while in town (although they left plenty of evidence of their presence), but a few did show up as I was leaving Rhyolite:

Next was a quick trip down to Death Valley National Park:

From there it was back to the Atomic Inn for a late afternoon of relaxing, reading, and watching football.

Dinner that night was at Smokin’ J’s Barbeque: an excellent “senior” serving of a pulled pork sandwich and fries:

Day 3 will be the 100 miles or so from Beatty to Tonopah with a stop in Goldfield.

Nevada Road Trip: From Home to Beatty (Day 1)

I hadn’t been on a road trip in years and wanted to take one to celebrate the one-year anniversary of my little stroke. Decided to visit a number of small Nevada towns and avoid any national restaurant or hotel chains.

I left home on the morning of the 18th of October. My first stop was actually just over the state border in California: China Ranch Date Farm (https://www.chinaranch.com/).

This place is less than 100 miles from Vegas and south of Death Valley. You have to want to go there just for its own sake, though, because it’s not really on the way to or from anywhere. It is not going to visited by hordes of tourists

I didn’t snap any pictures of the road on my way in, but here’s a few I took on my way out:

You would not want to be on this road in one of the areas infrequent rainstorms.

Here’s the gift shop:

They had a dozen or so different types of dates, date baked goods, souvenirs, rocks, and, of course, date shakes. One bathroom, a picnic table or two, and some hiking trails. It made for an interesting stop for an hour or so.

From there, I drove into Pahrump, which is pretty much an exurb of Las Vegas. Although it has around 45,000 residents now, it didn’t even have telephone service until the 1960s.

The main road through town has all the usual businesses and chains, but I was looking for somewhere local for lunch and settled on Mom’s Diner, which you can check out here https://www.facebook.com/people/Moms-Diner/100048743390385/# if you have Facebook (which I don’t).

The place was full of vintage items on the walls and had a great vibe. It was quite busy when I arrived for lunch on Saturday, but I only had to wait a few minutes for a table. They didn’t have any small tables and I felt a bit guilty taking up a table for four, but that soon sorted itself out: The family at the table next to me had 6 people and were having trouble fitting everyone in. I suggested we share my table, so rather than lunching by myself, I spent my time chatting with the grandfather about Pahrump and his history there. Made for an unexpected but interesting time. And the food was good, too!

Next stop was Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge (https://www.fws.gov/refuge/ash-meadows). Thanks to our dysfunctional government, the visitor center was closed, but the trails (and bathrooms) were still open. Ash Meadows is the largest remining oasis in the Mojave Desert, but it’s hard to realize that because there is not a lot of open water. Here are typical landscapes:

The water is almost completely grown over by bushes like this:

When you do glimpse the water, though, it’s stunning:

After a fairly warm afternoon of hiking the boardwalks, I headed for Beatty, NV, “Gateway to Death Valley” and home to 1,000 inhabitants (not counting the burros). After my big lunch, I just picked up a few snacks and a bottle of Diet Coke for the evening. I haven’t been drinking sodas much at all lately, but the day’s walking just seemed to call for it.

My room for the next two nights was in the Atomic Inn. I’ll let their website (https://atomicinnbeatty.com/about.cfm) speak for them:

Here’s the Inn and the steps up to my room:

Day two will be a ghost town, outdoor art installations, and Death Valley.

Forgotten Items

Tomorrow I have to get new garage doors installed and that means that today I had to clear out the area underneath where they will go. Most of this stuff was paperwork from Jackie or some of her paintings that I just don’t have room for, etc.

To my surprise, though, in the middle of everything else were two big boxes labeled “glassware”. Turned out these boxes were all mine and I had totally forgotten what was in them. Four hours later, here is what I pulled out:

Some of this I know I don’t want, but some I’ll keep if I can figure out where to put it.

Bad Dog

Brindy is generally a very calm, easy-going dog. She does still have issues when left alone, though. This is the only type of cage that has ever been able to hold her:

Today, I made the mistake of leaving my yoga mat next to the kennel when I left for 3 hours. This is sort of what it looked like:

This is what it looked like after I started the clean-up:

All those pieces were in the kennel with her. How the heck she managed to pull the mat through the bars in order to tear it up so thoroughly I can’t even begin to imagine!

Thought for the Day, 5 September 2025

“We are messy biology. We are just meat that thinks. We live with the persistent delusion, however, that we are somehow more than meat.

“Additionally there is a tendency to believe that existing in the natural state of every person would mean their body functions perfectly. In reality the human body is a kluge, a series of evolutionary compromises that functions well enough to breed, and exists in a constant state of decay, barely staving off entropy for seven or eight decades until finally succumbing to the inevitable.”

The Clean Eating Delusion 

Posted by Steven Novella on January 20, 2016  

My First Half Marathon

No, I didn’t do any running; I doubt I could run 21 meters easily much less 21,000 meters!

I do, however, row on a regular basis both at home on my own rowing machine and, for the last 2 months or so, at Row House, a fitness center focused on (not surprisingly) rowing. Rowing there has taught me a different technique and given me a good variation to my usual routine.

I fairly often row for 7 to 10 kilometers, which, at home, takes me 45 minutes to an hour. Today’s challenge at Row House was to complete either a full or half marathon distance in 5 hours. I wasn’t looking to set any records, so I aimed at keeping a pace of 7 minutes per 1000 meters and that’s exactly what I did. So, 21 kilometers in 2 and a half hours. Not bad for my first such outing.

I am sure I will be a bit stiff tomorrow. If nothing else, it’s a bit long to sit on one’s derriere!

Alaska Cruise 2025

I just got back from a 12-day cruise to Alaska. Here are a few highlights.

Started the trip at the Edgewater Hotel in Seattle. I had stayed there before with my mom and loved the idea of starting a cruise by staying over the water.
This is the view from the room
Here is the Oceania Riviera next to one of her bigger relatives
And here she is at anchor
Heading toward Hubbard Glacier
Hubbard Glacier
Exploring an island near Sitka
Sea otter with cub