Nevada Road Trip: Ely Excursions (Day 5)

This was the only day of my trip that the weather wasn’t perfect. Fortunately, none of my planned activities were outdoors.

I woke up to the health app on my phone telling me I had some outlier readings during the night. My respiratory rate had gone up to 15 something instead of its usual 13 and my blood oxygen level had dropped to 92. The app then proceeded to inform me that this sometimes occurs when you are at higher altitudes. Ely is at around 6400 feet, so the app was correct about the reason for the changes (I was back to normal by the 2nd night).

Many people don’t realize just how high in elevation most of Nevada is. Its average elevation is the 5th highest among the states at 5500 feet. It is also the 2nd most mountainous state after Alaska. Basically, the whole state is in the Basin and Range Province (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basin_and_Range_Province) and most of it is also part of The Great Basin (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Basin).

I pulled this map off https://geology.com/topographic-physical-map/nevada.shtml. It gives a nice sense of just how mountainous Nevada is.

The train ride I went on in the morning was just up the Steptoe Valley a bit. This valley is one of the many “basins” to be found in basin and range country. At about 100 miles long, it’s not setting any records, but it’s no little thing either. We went about 12 or 13 miles up the valley and then the locomotive decoupled and came around to the other end of the train and we went back to Ely.

It was an enjoyable trip and if you’re ever in Ely, you should check out what kind of excursions are available. Although this trip was not stunningly scenic (in part due to the rain), a guide provided plenty of history about the area. You can check out some of the other trips they make here: https://nnry.com/

At the end of the train ride, we were offered a tour of the locomotive shed. There were a dozen or so of us on the train, but only three of us went on the tour. Wow, did those other people miss out!

An original sign on the outside of the shed:

“Book agents, insurance agents, peddlers, ticket sellers, solicitors, politicians positively prohibited from visiting the offices or shops of this Company”

The first thing our guide did was to warn us to step over not on the rails as they were slippery, especially in the rain. Once inside, she cautioned, do not touch anything, be careful not to step on anything, and don’t fall into anything. I think you can see from these pictures why the warnings were necessary.

Here’s a series of pictures showing our locomotive coming back into the shed:

During the whole tour, out guide kept us entertained with lots of stories about the various engines and also about the shop cats. Make sure you take this tour if you can.

I spent the afternoon roaming through the White Pine Public Museum (White Pine is the county that Ely is in). It was refreshing to be in a museum small enough that I could take a good look at everything and just enjoy the cornucopia of items from local history.

And let’s not forget the cave bear:

Next stop Caliente and surrounds.

Nevada Road Trip: Tonopah to Ely (Day 4)

It’s 170 miles from Tonopah to Ely, all on US 6. US 6 used to run from Long Beach, CA to Provincetown, MA; at that time, it was the longest US highway in the country. Now it officially starts in Bishop, CA and is only the 2nd longest (after US 20).

I think it would be fun to be the “eccentric” referred to!

US 50, which meets up with US 6 in Ely, was called “The Loneliest Road in America” by Life magazine in 1986 for the section running through Nevada. Let me tell you, US 6 feels even lonelier as it seems to have even less traffic than I remember from the times I’ve driven US 50. I was passed by two cars shortly after leaving Tonopah and then didn’t see another car on my side of the road until I hit the junction with NV 318 not far from Ely. As for cars coming the other way, they were scarce: at one point it was 17 minutes between vehicles.

One of the things Ely is known for is a great number of outdoor murals. I had planned on walking around town following the map I had downloaded, but the entire main street of town was torn up, making it very difficult to get around. And my next day there was my only day of wet, drizzly, and/or rainy weather. I’ll just have to hit the murals next time, because I enjoyed Ely enough to go back.

My first stop, then, was the Northern Nevada Railway Museum:

There’s not much to the museum exhibits; the fun is in seeing all the actual locomotives and rail cars. The two women in the gift shop were really nice and after chatting for a bit I asked them where I should have dinner. They both suggested “Margaritas”. Turns out that restaurant was in the hotel I was staying at and it was very good. Before leaving, I bought a ticket for a train ride the next day.

My hotel was the Prospector Hotel and Casino for the two nights I was in Ely and I loved it. Besides a good restaurant and friendly staff, they also gave out bags of popcorn at 4 pm every evening! The room was large and had all the amenities. It also had two bottles of Wolfgang Puck wine (one red and one white) to purchase with part of the proceeds going to charity. I had the white.

I had the afternoon to go exploring and the woman at the front desk suggested that Cave Lake State Park might have some fall colors to enjoy. The area around Ely is mostly sagebrush, pinyon pine, and juniper, so not much color there, but all the creek beds were full of bright yellow willows.

Next up was Ward Charcoal Ovens. I have been to some other charcoal ovens, but these were in really fine shape. They were built in the 1870s to produce charcoal for a nearby smelter. This means the area is just beginning to recover from being deforested. Fortunately for the rest of the trees in the area, the newly built railroads started bringing in coal for the smelter to use.

A note about the color of the sky in most of these photos. The pictures were all taken with my iPhone 13 mini. The only adjustments I made to them was cropping and maybe lightening up some shadows. I don’t adjust the color or tint at all. The sky really is that intense blue that I associate with my visits to the Southwest in my childhood and that I so rarely see any more.

Tomorrow will be trains and a short-faced bear fossil.